We attempted the pass as soon as the sunlight filtered into the canyon, starting our climb around 6:15am. Though the hike is estimated to take as many as 6 hours (and therefore many elect to start around 4am), we made it to the top in 2.5, still managing to beat the predicted winds that pick up around 10am. I attribute some of our speediness to the "power breakfast" Steph and I concocted out of muesli, peanut butter and the remnants of our one-time treat of a vat of hot chocolate sludge. It took some convincing, but it ended up tasting rather delicious (as all things do when you are ravenous).
In addition to the potential complications that can come with hiking at elevation, exposure to the elements is somewhat more intimidating. The week before we attempted the pass several travels were forced to turn back when conditions became inhospitable. Lucky for us, there was (quite literally) not a single cloud in the sky when we made our ascent. The steep switchbacks dominating the first hour of the hike made it the most challenging section of the trail that day. Otherwise the path turned gradual and the route was infrequently dotted with some formidable icy cliffhanging sections. We reached the pass in the good company of our friends Armando, Ram, and Mondavi and celebrated with a whole crew of others that had exited camp hours before us. The panoramic view from the top was fantastic and the stark difference in lanscape on either side of the range divide was particularly striking. We hiked down from the pass into the stark dryness of the Kali Gandaki Valley - a painfully steep and winding 1600 meters.
Relief from lung squeezing elevation and restorative meals awaited us at the end of the day in Muktinath. This small village is one of the most revered holy places for both Hindus and Buddhists and is set up as a welcoming respite for backpackers and pilgrims alike. The town is very literally wrapped in prayer flags, and following an afternoon of foot rest we ventured out to visit the ancient temple of Vishnu and take a peek at the 'eternal flame' fed from a supply of natural gas filtering up from below a high perched Buddhist temple. We found each of these sites and others housed side by side within the same walled compound.
Once in the Kali Gandaki, the trekking route follows the road almost exclusively. We did our best to take alternative routes whenever possible, often adding several hours and lots of mis/adventure to our day. It's not uncommon to hop a bus or plane from Jomsom (a few hours walk by road from Muktinath) and end the trek. Road building in the area has taken some of the enjoyment out of walking in this area. We elected to stick it out, as stopping would cut the adventure in half and we were curious to take less popular routes and discover our own appreciation.
The town of Kagbeni promised fresh peach, apricot and apple preserves and a local distillery. Supplies were either exhausted or unpopular because we instead found a Yak Donalds with an attached 7-11. Neither resembled the American version (thank goodness) and for the novelty of it, and the growing "grungriness" from a long walk following a longer steeper walk, we ordered some of the local masala tea and seabuckthorn juice (deliciously thick rose hip-like brew). Our accommodations at the New Annapurna Guesthouse one of the best of the trip, offering down comforters and brightly polished wood finished rooms for 100 rupees a night (about a dollar each to share a room...and typical of the prices we paid along the way). The light was right on our morning of departure, so we made our way around the winding narrow walls of the city to take a barrage of pictures. Our favorite group of travelers from the Intrepid group made us aware of one particularly entertaining statue always standing "at attention" in an unassuming corner of town. Loved their senses of humor!
From Kagbeni we ventured off road to Marpha and Tukuche, leaving behind our desert-like surroundings for pine forest and green terraced hills. The towns we found tucked along the river and away from the road were some of the more peaceful spots along the entire route and seemingly unaffected by tourism. We saw traditional thatched houses stacked above livestock paddocks and vegetable gardens . People were inquisitive and eager to guide us, and not to herd us into a shop or hotel. We elected to hitch a ride by jeep to a foot bridge that would take us off route again to the town of Lete. The jeep ride over the freshly carved road proved entertaining to say the least. We were again over packed, miraculously wedged in, and crossing our fingers that we wouldn't meet head-on traffic on the half lane path. After several river crossings by automobile and enough jostling to convince us both that we were destined to bounce right off one of the many breathtaking curves, we were dropped off at a suspension bridge with simple sign and an arrow pointing our way.
Our circuitous route to Lete got us there long after dark, but we were able to pass by Titi lake and several small villages along the way. The views of the canyon and the seasonally dry river bed as we left the village of Konjo were particularly spectacular. After a long day (err several long days) of sweaty walking we decided to spring for a bucket of hot water for bucket bathing. It's almost as good as the real thing! There has to be some version of a comedic skit that captures the silliness that ensues when two people try to squat side by side and bath in a much needed way. We shared some good laughs (and I think the kids who found a vantage point on the hill above our bathroom did too).
From Lete we for Ghasa and took advantage of our last chance to opt to off-road. The alternative trail was blasted out of the rock wall for a ways and riddled with cobbled stone staircases for most of the rest. Those become less fun with weight on your back and lots of miles on your legs, but the views of the river were no less incredible and the promise of hot springs at the end of the day was more than enough motivation. This became one of our most difficult days. Steph and I got separated, got pissed, recovered, got harassed by random kids (first kid kicked dust, Steph kicked dust back, second instance too insulting to repeat), and culminated in a vomit fest from toxic smoke (that was all me..thanks to burning trash). Maybe too much info, but a doozy of a day like that is also set up for explanation of the aftermath. Tatopani's hot springs turns out to be a den of sin of sorts. No local ladies frequent the area and a friend of ours caught a guy taking her picture in her bathing suit (nobody's used to seeing/showing much more than face, hands and ankles). That put a severe damper on some much needed and much anticipated bathing, but we made do and did like the local would do if they "did" - we sprung mostly clothed. The real consequence of the rough day was that we didn't get to ascend Poon Hill, the steepest of the trek and one that promises some of the best sunrise views. Between my bout of illness and Steph's ragged feet and impending flight home, we were a day short of having time to complete the section of trail. We opted for a second day in Pokhara, which was ultimately a great choice. Pokhara's tourist district sits beside Lake Phewa Tal and turned out to be a low key place to take some well earned rest. We killed the better part of a day on a rented wood boat and foisted the solid 5 lb paddles over our shoulders to explore the hill tops on the other side of the lake. We found the brilliant white Buddhist Peace Temple and caught views of paragliders in every color of parachute jumping of cliffs across the lake in a swirling kaleidoscope of color. The day ended in me bailing out of the boat fully clothed- an ultimately unsuccessful and really dumb attempt to save my sunglasses from a bed of seriously polluted kelp/tires/can/bottles/??/one of my flip-flops (still feel guilty, RIP).
We returned to Kathmandu in time for a full strik of the Labor and Mainenance Party (though blame went to the Maoists), which meant that Steph had to leave for the hotel with all of her things on a rickshaw. It also meant that I had the entire day to hunt for places to eat and have relative peace on a beautiful day in an otherwise insanely busy and hurried atmosphere. I spent my last night dining at Thakali Banch, a place my friend Logan (from Corvallis) has suggested. He lived like a local there for two years and promised that the eatery would provide the best local fare. For pennies, I and the crowd of people I brought with me, ate piles of Thali among locals- quite a feat in an enclave of the city overrun with tourists. An amazing last day in Nepal!
No comments:
Post a Comment