A Posse of Three Takes on the Desert

So we've set off biking though Rajasthan, a gang of three since our friend Adam joined us in Jaipur. Our recent stretch took us 330K from Jaipur to Bikaner. The landscape became full dusty pink desert as soon as we hit Jaipur, the air cleared, the roads mellowed, and sunshine became consistent. Along the way we stopped in Sikar where we had another chance meeting and befriended the family who oversees the local Hindu temple. We shared tea in the evening and met up the next morning only to get carted through every classroom at Ashok's school to the delight of both the students and teachers. He and his friends also got a huge kick out of carting around three foreigners on the back of their motor bikes. Fahtipur was a gorgeous old city and we managed to score a fantastic haveli (open air hotel) - one of the cleanest and neatest places we've stayed at so far. I got sick somewhere between Fahtipur and Ratangar, but we still managed to eek out a lively tour of a temple (I promptly crashed for 16 hours afterward). The Bikaner Fort was a major highlight. Of all of the forts and palaces we've managed to see in Rajasthan, the Bikaner Fort was by far the most ornate and intricately decorated. The carved sandstone, marble inlays, and walls gilded in gold leaf and inlaid with silver mirrors were spectacular. Another major highlight was the five legged cow roaming down the road (yes, the fifth appendage was dangling, complete with hoof, from the cow's hump). Due to the lack of water and places to stay between Bikaner and Jaisalmer, we opted to take a bus. Jaisalmer resembles a giant sand castle on a hill. The fort is the main draw and it unique in that people actually still live within its walls. We managed to arrive in town in time for the Desert Festival- a celebration of the state's art and culture. Rajasthani dress is totally unique and it's at its height now that we're deep in desert solitude. The men are known for the long mustaches they cultivate. They generally wear a white shalwar (imagine a pajama set) and any hue of colorful turban. The women wear sets of full arm bangles and shockingly bright shades of pink and orange patterned with gold glitter. I've tried to get pictures, but people generally don't appreciate it and refuse photographs. From Jaisalmer, we biked 40 to Kuhri for a one night stay in a gigantic and plush tent, and a one night camel safari in the Great Thar Desert. The tent stay was accidental but welcomed- just a case of an out of date guide book. The camel safari was a riot. We took off with three camels and three guides, stopping for lunch and a nap near a pack of foraging wild camels, and ending the day watching sunset over the dunes and sleeping under the stars. Our guides barely knew English and our Hindi is still really basic, but we made fast friends. This desert adventure was most striking for me because it's the first time in months that I've experienced solidtude. We actually felt silence for a day, which is incredibly rare in India. This isn't a place you would characterize as tranquil, and I've had an interesting time trying to do anything alone here without getting followed or harrassed by men on the street. To say that I reveled in my aloneness would be putting in mildly.