The ride out of Luang Prabang was epic. The climb was tough, but we started out during the cooler morning hours and managed to beat the worst of the heat. As it turned out the relentless climb we previewed was not just 15k, but actually continued on for closer to 60k. The skyward route allowed sweeping views of the hills and valleys of the Luang Prabang province and forgave slightly by cooling as we climbed. Two gallons of water and a few hours of ridge climbing later we arrived in Kietachamba. We immediately dove face first into well earned bowls of fried noodles, eggs and veggies. The next morning we rode off for Poukoun and Phonsavan to see the Plain of Jars. Phonsavan was another of my favorite stops. The city is at elevation and surrounded by rolling, green, pine covered hills. It reminded me of home a bit- breezy, beautiful, territory ripe for adventure. Ironically, this province was the most heavily bombed during the Secret War with only slivers of land cleared of UXOs (unexploded ordinances...bombs). The Plain or Jars is actually three different areas where ancient stone urns are clustered. The sites were only recently cleared of UXOs and opened to tourism, implying that there are likely others that are currently off limits. Though there is some speculation about the purpose of the jars, the locals believe that they were used to as burial sites where the dead were laid to rest until the bones could be collected and disposed of according to tradition. The jars themselves are pretty unbelievable. The stone used to construct them can't be found anywhere near the province, and even the smallest jars weigh at least half a ton. Despite weathering, simple carvings can still be deciphered from the sides of the urns and their lids. Battle remnants were visible at two of the sites caught in the crossfire. Trenches, enormous bomb craters, and bullet riddled jars are clear enough evidence, though it seems so unlikely while standing on a lush hilltop under peaceful blue skies dangling puffy white clouds. That's the tragedy of Phonsavan in a nutshell. All that meets the eye is serene, breezy, beautiful. Unfortunately, due to carpet bombing of the area (not on the short list of things that make me proud to be an American), there are literally millions of unexploded bombs lurking in the forests and under potentially valuable farm land. This effectively paralyzes locals from making a living and nips any DIY adventure in the bud in an area ripe for the best kind of exploration.