Friday, November 5, 2010

Quirks of Kigali

I've heard a few foreigners refer to Kigali as the "Disney Land" of Africa. The influence of the West are not limited to designer coffee, a 24hr shopping center and Hummers, but the this city has immense personality all its own. The most entertaining and convenient way to get around town is by moto taxi. The process goes something like this: whistle, wave or hiss (very popular) to signal that you want a ride, bargain for a price in French or broken Kinyarwanda, throw on the spare helmet, hop on the back and straddle a total stranger while white knuckling it toward a requested destination. Each ride is an adventure alone, but the blessings of nimble transport can also be its curse. Motos have the advantage of creating a third "lane" by squeezing through the 36 inch gap between the preexisting ones. Capitalizing on vehicular elbow room is guiltlessly satisfying in bumper to bumper traffic. The down side is the momentary terror of getting smeared against neighboring vehicles. Throw in mid-ride (engine running) gas stops, construction-evading sidewalk riding, back seat language lessons, thunderous afternoon downpours, and giant I-need-to-race-EVERYONE ego, and you have a picture of the potential associated shinanyguns. Bus transport is a close second for entertaining conveyance. The Kigali bus system is doing its part to carry Rwandan hiphop to every corner of the city via radio waves and I return the favor by mystifying fellow riders with my white girl "seat dancing" moves.

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