Two Faces

Rwanda is a very ordered country, largely thanks to the influence of the uber popular President Kigame who was recently re-elected for another 7 year term with overwhelming support. The elections occurred shortly before I arrived and were marked by a barrage of propaganda campaigns, rallies, and a few random grenade attacks on bus stations in the city center. The rest of the world didn't likely hear much about the violence, thanks mostly to the heavy censorship of bad publicity, including dissent of any kind. Rumor has it that the beloved PK (code name used by expats when speaking frankly in public…that alone should say enough) has full control over the media and silences opposition through discreditation, intimidation, or house arrest. His actions have been openly criticized by human rights groups and the US government, with only curt response. He argues that there is no room for dissent in Rwanda as the country attempts to move forward after the devastation of the 1994 genocide, and that no distractions should be permitted that might interrupt the healing process or development goals. It's an interesting argument and one that is harder to challenge when Rwanda is considered a success story (again by the US government) for progress made since '94. The country experiences little corruption, has low levels of crime and is relatively prosperous compared to its neighbors. The dominant top-down, systematic control approach has interesting consequences, some that might be considered positive while others less so. The strong vigilance of the State manifests in many different ways. For instance, there are little things like getting stopped and fined by the police for putting one foot in a grass median, or slightly more concerning things like learning that there are "files" that exist for every ex-pat residing in the country. Although I can't speak to the file content, the overall message is that your life, your purpose here, and your actions aren't a secret. Citizens are encouraged to report (via "call ins") all kinds of activity to local government. The information is then passed on to higher levels if deemed necessary. On the up-side, this system is largely responsible for a general lack of corruption. Tight fisted influence has instituted a monthly community service day called "umuganda," modeled after traditional practice. On the last Saturday of every month everyone over the age of 18 years is obliged to come together and collectively participate in a community service activity. After the work is done meetings are held to allow time for community members to voice general concerns and to propose future umuganda projects. The projects themselves range from building and repairing infrastructure, to helping vulnerable families within the community. So the control and order has two faces. From a Western point of view, the price paid is privacy and autonomy. I should mention that umuganda is not voluntary, it's expected, police enforced (unless you hide in your home), and incentivized by taking names, shutting down roads and transportation systems, and halting all local business between 8am and noon (roughly). It's organized at the village level, so absences don't go unnoticed. For me, the feeling of being watched is disconcerting, to a nation still rattled by devastating violence, it can reasonably be conceived of as comforting.